Plymouth Kebab

Guest review

Rob Thijssen

Nawroz

Plymouth, UK

The most recent recruit to the ranks of kebab-loving royalty is Rob, and he has been dining handsomely on a Kurdish feast in Stonehouse, Plymouth. Take it away, Rob!

There are a lot of late night kebab stops in Plymouth. It's a Navy town with a great big university population so no greasy midnight döner hawker is ever going to go bust over a failure to flog stickmeat wrapped in pita and squirted on with the garlicky side of a mayo squeezy.

Nawroz, however, is not that kind of place. Word of mouth about the authentic Kurdish cuisine tucked into a back alley at the Union Street side of town (props, if you understand the connotations there), is how most folk discover this little gem. Regular customers include, but aren't limited to, all of the Middle Eastern population of Plymouth, tall, wide shouldered, British soldiers dressed as civilians but giving a strong air of Special Forces do-not-mess-with and often looking like they're wearing stubble from a recent deployment to the Korengal and everyone who lives in the neighbourhood and hence knows it's there.

Soup at Nawroz, PlymouthA hot bowl of chicken soup lands in front of you shortly after you sit down. Nobody asks if you want it and no payment is expected for it. There's no danger of not liking it however. It tastes like the comfort food your nan used to make. She didn't ask if you wanted it either.

The menu starts at just over a fiver for a honking great chunk of fatty lamb dripping in Kurdish flavours on a bed of rice and a side of oven fresh flatbread. I note that all the Middle Eastern men around me are eating this dish. They obviously know a good thing when they see it.

Awesome platter from Plymouth

The rest of the menu is variations of lamb, chicken or kofta skewers on plain rice, biryani or flatbread. Starting at around 7 quid and hitting 11 for a mix of three sheesh on biryani and served with a side of either aubergine or okra in rich, spicy tomato sauce. There's also a grilled fish option for the pescatarians as well as a 3 quid "sandwich" option, which is shawarma and salad, wrapped in naan with optional chilli and garlic sauce.

Bread fresh from the tandoor for the Plymouth kebabI think pretty much everything on the menu comes with the fresh flatbread baked minutes earlier in a stone kiln that you can just see from your table. No frozen pita here.

Traditional Kurdish tea from the Nawroz kebab in PlymouthTea is served middle eastern style in tiny ornamental glass vases. I like to drink it with more sugar than seems reasonable.

Finally, if the canteen atmosphere downstairs is not to your liking, upstairs has a cozier, restaurant appeal.

Rob: that was awesome and the platter of three skewers on biryani looks divine. In lieu of Rob's score table, here's Pete's impressions.

Score Category Synopsis
Meat Quality Triple-whammy stickmeat glory
Flavour Blend I wish I had eaten that Kebabiryani
Salady Goodness Certainly
Spice Hit Unknown
Favourite Colour Navy
Kebab bread from their own kiln – Kurds and yes-way!

What next? Another guest review? No chance – it's our turn for a kebab, and the (relatively) big cities of Sofia, Plovdiv and Veliko Tarnova are calling.